Selection of electronic ballasts for 8W UV lamp with G5 socket

Sergei asks:

Tell us better how to connect an 8W UV lamp, G5 base, Phillips brand. It is better to take electronic ballasts, but how much power? How much more powerful is the starter? And what is the supply, if then I decided to connect two lamps at once? That is, with a specific example with numbers. So it will be clear and understandable to everyone. Not even electricians. And explain why exactly such a power reserve, etc.

Do you understand? And not just a diagram and say that electronic ballasts are better than electronic ballasts. So it will be clear to everyone. I have circuits, but I'm afraid to connect. I'm just meticulous. I'm checking everything. There are different opinions and schemes. Now I want yours. I want to do it myself, but for the first time it's scary.

The answer to the question:

Hello! Why was your meticulousness not enough to find out basic information about the power of fluorescent lamps? What are you going to put the power of the starter, if they do not have such a concept? There is only the voltage for which it is designed, and it, in turn, determines in which inclusion the lamps should be and limits the discharge voltage of the neon starter bulb ...

Only now the whole snag in what you say is “what is better than an electronic ballast or electromagnetic ballast” but are planning to stick a starter to the electronic ballast, and why?

Electronic ballasts are an electronic device for igniting and powering a fluorescent lamp; neither a surge in the emf of a large inductor, nor energy storage are needed here. All this happens in the auto-generated (most often in cheap) electronic ballast circuit.

Just write in the search “8 W ballasts”, you will be given “8 W ballasts for T5 lamps” and you will find what you need!

Also note that power supplies for fluorescent lamps are selected for a specific switching circuit. Do you know them? Only they are not different, it is one, all over the world for EMPR - a choke in series, and a starter with a voltage of 220-240V parallel to the lamp. If it is a raster lamp with 4 18 W lamps, then they turn on in pairs, then they put 2 110 V starters in parallel to each of the lamps. To put it briefly, there are simply no “different schemes”.

Of course, there are some variations in the presence or absence of compensating reagents and interference capacitors and throttle starting circuits (which in itself is not entirely correct).

Electronic ballasts are usually indicated on their housing. If this is a ballast for one lamp, then usually a phase and zero are connected to it, and from it 4 wires, 2 for each of the lamp spirals.

The power of electronic ballasts is selected in accordance with the power of the lamps, if it is designed for more than a few lamps, then it indicates 2x36, 2x18, for example.

If the power of the ballast, though electronic, even electromagnetic will be more than the rated power of the lamps - they will fail more quickly (significantly).

And if you go to the Philips website and find the catalog of lamps, then it has a table of correspondence between lamps and electronic ballasts, so TUV TL mini lamps are recommended to be used with electronic ballasts “HF-M RED 109 SH TL / PL-S 230-240V”

I hope I completely satisfied your curiosity and answered all the questions.

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