Help determine the malfunction of the pump Umnitsa BTs-3
After working for less than a second, the pump stood up, smoke came from the outlet and the machine knocked out in the shield.
In my infinite wisdom, I decided that the problem was in the outlet and through the extension cord again tried to turn on the pump. I myself don’t know how I am still alive, with that instinct of self-preservation ...
Quiet clap, hand in soot, smoke from the plug and again a broken machine in the shield.
Having decided that the problem is in the wire, I decided to change it. He removed the panel from the Pribluda where to leave the cable, unhooked the wires and was happy to pack up the store. So far the shoe finally came to me:
1) but why did I actually decide that replacing the wire would help?
2) if I buy it, how will I connect everything? I didn’t have enough intelligence to take a photo “as it was”.
So I decided to ask the Internet.
How can I diagnose what exactly is wrong with my pump (Clever BTs-3)? And if the matter is really in the wire - how to connect a new one?
There are 3 wires from the pump - yellow, black and red. And a capacitor CBB60. The native wire has green-yellow (earth, yes?), Brown and blue. If you manage to buy the same one, then in what combination should I connect them?
Sorry for the confusion.
If the cores of the disconnected cable do not “ring” among themselves, then ring the wires from the pump windings to the housing. It makes no sense to measure the resistance of the windings, since neither I, nor you, I think, know what it should be.
As for “how to reconnect”, why did you disconnect the capacitor? In operating mode, was it constantly connected to the engine? Or did you have to press a button at startup? (judging by your story that they simply plugged into the outlet, the capacitor was connected constantly)
Again we take a multimeter, we measure resistance. For example, you will have a small wire between 1 and 2, a large resistance between 1 and 3, and an average resistance between 2 and 3. Then 2 wire is common. We connect the phase and zero to those two wires between which the resistance is less (this is the working winding), and from the phase through the capacitor, that wire between which and the common wire is more resistance. If it turns out so that between the "common" wire and the "extreme" the same resistance, it does not matter which of the windings is connected via a capacitor. That is, phase and zero to 2 wires, and the third to phase through a capacitor.
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“Why did you disconnect the capacitor?” - First, I wanted to say that I did it to remove the wire. Ala, there it was connected like this: of the three wires, one was on the body, one directly to the wire from the pump and one was connected through a capacitor, sort of.
But now, as I started to remember and thought - really, really, because then the extra wire comes out left? For there are three of them from the pump, and only two are obtained into the pump. WTF?
“In operating mode, was it constantly connected to the engine?” - Yes, I didn’t have to press any buttons anywhere.
In matters of household electricity, I am a complete noob.
So I take a multimeter and measure the resistance of the pump wires?
One probe to black (H) and one to red (K), then to black and yellow (F), then to yellow and red? The resistance was as follows: ChK = 10.8 ChZh = 34.5 ZhK = 25.
And then I freeze.
I have 3 wires from the power cord - brown, blue, and yellow-green.
Yellow-green goes to the case, I added it to the ground in the plug.
And then what?
I have two wires at the input, and three at the output, and a capacitor between them.
The result should be: red + brown, black + blue + one from the capacitor, yellow + second from the capacitor?
hardly could be connected to the case. There the ground conductor is connected. Since the pump was supposed to be powered from the outlet, connecting one of the supply wires to the housing will cause a phase to appear on this housing, depending on the position of the plug in the electrical outlet.
It turns out you have a red common wire - the connection point of the windings.
Yes, it turns blue and brown (phase and zero from the cable from the outlet) to red and black. And from any of them through the capacitor to yellow. Check it out. The direction of rotation, I think, will not change, this can be done if 4 wires came out of the engine ...