Why knocks out a difavtomat at the input?

Alexandr asks:

Hello! 5 kW comes to the house, an opening machine for 32A and differential. at 25A (left from the previous owners), then the counter, then the switchboard (in the switchboard there are buses 20A-2pcs, 16A-3 pcs, 10A-1 pcs). He made an extension in which there will be a bath with a boiler, a washing machine and a 1500W heater. I decided to take the wire 3 * 4 VVG, put 1aut-20 A, 2automat-16A I did everything, connected, turn on the heater, the differential is immediately cut down. on input

Why? Although you turn on the heater in the extension cord from the house, everything is fine! This outlet is connected to the 20A!

The answer to the question:

Hello! Sockets are not connected to 20A machines, they may already be on, and the machine will still work. Sockets are designed for 16A, but this is not the problem with you.

If the same heater works normally through an extension cord from outlets in the house, but does not work in the extension, then tell me how other electrical appliances behave when connected to this outlet?

Perhaps you have some problems with the wiring, for example, the zero core and the ground are damaged and there is a leak when the load is connected. It may not be damaged, maybe somewhere there is simply a leak from zero to ground, when you connect the load, current flows through the neutral wire and, accordingly, when it comes in contact with the ground wire, a leak can occur. Especially if the walls are damp.

Is there one outlet in the room? Or others that are connected to another machine work fine? If the second, then most likely the problem is in the wiring connection, maybe you somewhere in the box mixed up ground with zero.

Well, and another reason - you mixed up zeros and took a zero from somewhere BEFORE this knocking differential.

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