Which cable and RCD to choose for an electric stove?
The stove turns off. In a common corridor in an iron cabinet, a separate one, as I understand it, is called an RCD, it says C25. I put this electrician from the housing office about 2 years ago precisely because of the pouring and drying of the wire on the floor for 4 days until it works again.
Everything is bad. Hansa stove 4 ordinary pancake and oven, the whole house 137 series with electric stoves originally, 40 years ago, the same times and a wire. It is necessary to change.
In the country, I know that the best non-wet NUM is three by two and a half, round gray outside the wooden walls. Inside. But in the country there is no electric stove. If I buy 4 by 2.5 NUM or VVG, something new is not burning, I don’t know what it’s called, and anyway, somewhere it’s something - it will protect me as a person 4 by 2.5 or better than 3 by 2.5 wires. I know what UZO protects.
It does not protect anything, there is little money, there are many repairs ahead. The future stove will not be expensive either. But on modern cheap stoves Burning is written 8 of something current - a modern inexpensive electric one, if at some point I buy enough 3 to 2.5 wires or 4 to 2.5 wires to buy. The question is combined with an RCD with the inscription 25. The question is which RCD plus which wire in combination works well for safety. Thank..
How many phases does a plate come on?
Is there grounding?
In the name of the question you indicate 3x2.5 or 3x4, and in the text you write 3x2.5 or 4x2.5 - you already decide between the number of cores or the cross section you choose. According to SP 31.110, for connecting single-phase plates, a copper cable with a conductive cross-section of 6 mm² should be used.
The number of cores is selected based on the number of phases and the presence of a protective conductor. The cross section of the cores is selected according to the power of the plate.
On the RCD, the letter C would not be. This is a difavtomat, apparently. That NYM, that VVGNG-LS (this is something that is not burning something new, not too new ...) equally perform their functions. Choose the one you want.
You indicate the rated current (C25), it only determines how much power the device can connect to it. For the purpose of protection against electric shock, difavtomats and RCDs are considered not from the rated current side, but from the leakage current side. It should also indicate type 30 mA (30 milliamps) or 10 mA.
To protect against equipment leaks in humid and hazardous rooms according to PUE 7.1.82, it is necessary to install RCDs or diflomats with a leakage current of not more than 30 mA.
Whether your difavtomat will pull if you buy a new stove depends on its power. And the phrase “But on modern cheap stoves Burning is written 8 of something current” - this is definitely not written. There are different plates and you need to choose one that matches the power allocated to your apartment.Find out how much power is allocated - find out in the management company or in the power supply agreement ...
Contact a qualified electrician for help, because when consulting on the Internet there is no way to take into account all the nuances and eliminate misunderstandings.
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Thank. Yes, probably this is an automaton, not an RCD. I turned off the one on the cat so far. written 25. He is for an electric stove. Only three white narrow objects with orange, two for lighting the apartment (if you turn them off in the common corridor, the orange foot down), then the light disappears, but not everywhere) If you put both orange legs down - both in the bathroom and in the rooms and in the toilet, there is no electricity everywhere. And one of them is 3x (with the inscription 25), if you rearrange it down, then only the electric stove turns off. I fill the wire to the stove easily, it is in the baseboard under the door to the bathroom entrance. And tile on tile in the bathroom, the floor is higher in the bathroom than in the hallway. And the slope of the tile is a little outward. That is, water on the floor in the bathroom pours down the corridor. Directly to the wire going from below, in the direction through the wardrobe in the corridor, it is fenced off, and emerges again in the kitchen baseboard. Hansa cooker 10 years of age. On its back cover there is an inscription in German 7.2 KW. Once in the old aluminum wire 3 convex veins are visible, it means that we call it single-phase. I think so. And in the wire from the power outlet to the electric stove, 3 wires are visible pulled out a little, protruding, black, blue and beige-brown.
Then I need a three-core copper wire, NUM or VVGngLS, each core of 6 mm thick should be, as I understand it? According to Snip, you write 6 mm each core. Or 4 mm thick is also suitable? Electricians in the housing office are such that they can be hung. I’m still worried that the power outlet itself is 45 years old, the black rectangular box is big enough, will it turn out that I’ll ask you to connect a beautiful new copper wire to the old power box, and it has been working with the aluminum three-wire for 45 years, maybe inside it itself aluminum somewhere? Is it possible to bring a copper wire into the old power socket? Or change the power outlet. And from what the wire from the outlet to the plate, the black tube is round, bends, thick, I also do not know. Suddenly there is also old aluminum.